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Invented in 1858 by the American technician Blake, the eponymous invention is a machine that sews - simultaneously, with single or double thread - the upper, the insole and the sole.
This construction joins the midsole to the sole and is achieved by means of the Rapid sewing machine. This machine, which has curved needles and cutters, is also normally used in Goodyear processing to sew the welt to the sole.
It is the combination of the two methods in the construction of a single shoe.
It is a construction patented by Romit in 2008. It consists of adding to the traditional Blake-Rapid method, a “sacchetto” construction forming a bag-like lining of the insole and the stitching. This makes it possible to create a shoe that is both durable and flexible.
Footwear manufacturing system in which a welt is first stitched to the lip of the insole channel and the upper, and then joined externally to the sole. Footwear made using this method is compact, robust and durable.
A manufacturing system in which the application of an innovative leather insole results in a shoe that not only retains the typical Goodyear characteristics but also remains extremely flexible and comfortable.
Goodyear processing system consisting of the reverse stitching of the upper onto the light and flexible sole without welt. It is then turned around to complete the construction. The result is a light and flexible shoe particularly suitable for the summer season.
In this process, also known as “sacchetto”, the inner lining is sewn like a bag around the shoe last, thus making the shoe softer and more flexible.
In tubular construction, the upper also wraps the shoe last in the outsole part, and is then hand-stitched into the upper part called the “vaschetta” through the use of a waxed thread.
This is a handcrafted stitching where the leather is punctured by hand with a tool called “stitching awl”. This tool is used to pierce the leather from the grain, passing inside the thickness of the leather itself, and then exiting again at the top. The stitching thread is then applied. The advantage of this stitching is that the leather is not pierced on the underside because the thread is only able to pass through the thickness of the leather, without passing through it completely.
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